Perched in a quiet nook in Lot 10’s Isetan department store in Kuala Lumpur is Nikaku. The restaurant is a tiny little oasis of calm, bookmarked by an open kitchen bordered by a long counter dotted with chairs.

Interestingly, Nikaku is an offshoot of KL’s famed Sushi Azabu, which itself is a sister restaurant of the original Michelin-starred Sushi Azabu in New York, United States.

The creative force behind Nikaku is executive chef Masaki Arakawa, a charismatic, seasoned Japanese culinary maven who trained in kaiseki in Nagoya, and went to sushi school in Osaka. Arawaka also helms KL’s Sushi Azabu although mostly from a managerial perspective now.

Nikaku emerged because Arakawa had married a Malaysian woman and embraced Islam. After converting, he realised there was a dearth of Japanese omakase restaurants and sushi restaurants that were pork-free and alcohol-free. So he decided to create one.

Arakawa is the talented chef behind Nikaku’s inclusive omakase sushi menus.

“Most of the high-end Japanese omakase restaurants use alcohol, so it is very hard to find a restaurant that caters to everyone. So we decided to make Nikaku a sushi omakase space for all Malaysians to enjoy the food,” he says.

The kitchen team consists entirely of Malaysian chefs trained at Sushi Azabu or under Arakawa’s watchful eye. While the food is alcohol-free and pork-free, the restaurant itself is not halal certified as the beverage list includes alcoholic options.

Arakawa says that initially, there was scepticism about the restaurant’s core ethos as people couldn’t fathom what he was trying to do.

“For the first few months, people didn’t understand why we were doing this omakase menu without alcohol, because omakase without alcohol hasn’t really been done before. But gradually they started to understand the concept,” he says.

At Nikaku, all the staff are locals who are trained in the art of sushi-making. This is done by design so if new branches are opened, local chefs will be put in charge. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

Arakawa adds that having a menu like this means it is much easier for him to cater to larger corporate events without having to struggle to find recipes or adapt existing ones.

At Nikaku, there are plenty of sushi omakase menus to whet the appetite, but if you have the time, look at indulging in the eatery’s signature Malaya Mae Omakase (RM398 per person).

There is a conscious effort to use as many local ingredients as possible on the menu, so you’ll discover a wealth of ingredients that reflect Malaysian sea and soil.

Highlights from the menu include the seasonal sip, or Japanese onion soup infused with soy milk. The soup is a nourishing, satiating winner that has hints of allium fused into its internal blueprint, giving it a divergent slant that ends up being wholly memorable.

The teriyaki chicken features beautifully grilled chicken with a blistered, lightly charred outer core that segues to incredibly tender meat. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

The teriyaki chicken is part of the Arang Bakar course of the menu and features chicken slathered in a teriyaki sauce that incorporates the use of white corn from Cameron Highlands.

The chicken is cooked over a Japanese Binchotan grill and retains a lovely blistered outer surface that melds into juicy, succulent meat inside.

The smoked yellowtail with ponzu sauce is another revelatory affair that highlights the suppleness of the fish against a smoky backdrop that casts it in a mysterious glow.

The smoked yellowtail sashimi is a silken temptress with a decadent mouthfeel. — Photos: ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

One of the most memorable offerings on the menu is definitely the locally-sourced green river prawn crusted with a miso mayonnaise.

Here, the fleshy, voluptuous sweetness of the prawn is juxtaposed against the creamy, umami-laced richness of the mayonnaise in what proves to be one of the most successful marriages to emerge from a meal here.

Sushi is one of the highlights of the omakase menu and there is a rich range of mostly Japanese fish and other aquatics to fill your belly.

Arakawa says this was a decision that was made after every effort was expended to incorporate local seafood into sushi – an endeavour that failed miserably.

The mackerel sushi features a slightly oily, supple slice of fish that also has a dab of spring onions and ginger for contrast. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

“Normally when we age Japanese fish, it becomes more umami and the flavour becomes more intense.

"But when we did it with the local fish, it became more fishy. And we tried with so many fish – like grouper and nyok nyok – but it just didn’t work, so we shifted to Japanese ingredients,” he explains.

From what’s on the table, indulge in the Japanese aji (mackerel) sushi with spring onion and ginger.

The sushi is light and delicate with fish that has attributes of the sea harbouring beneath its supple, slightly oleaginous flesh. The rice in this configuration is moulded to the fish and offers just enough starch to tie this all together beautifully.

The salmon sushi features fat, voluptuously silken fish draped atop rice.

Then there is the shima aji or amberjack sushi, which is drizzled with yuzu skin shavings for a touch of acidity.

The amberjack is plump and has a silk-like quality that makes it almost dissolve in the mouth upon contact.

Last but not least is the salmon sushi, which features salmon marinated in miso paste.

The salmon here is fat and velvety to the touch and this unctuousness is countenanced by the rice and vinegar that lines its base and gives it a heartfelt culmination that peaks in complete and total euphoria.

The chawanmushi is sensationally good.

Next up is Nikaku’s chawanmushi, which is honestly a thing of beauty.

The steamed egg custard is cloudy, pillowy soft and this goodness is accentuated by the glossy ikura pearls layered atop, which add richness and umami to this comfort food.

The chirashi bowl served next features marinated raw uni (sea urchin), salmon, tuna and scallops sliced into pieces and scattered over a bed of rice in what proves to be a hedonistic dive into delicious underwater territory.

Sliced sea urchin, salmon, tuna and scallop will vie for your affections in this delicious bowl of chirashi.

Ultimately, a meal at Nikaku takes diners on a journey of discovery through the wonders of Japanese sushi and omakase culture.

It’s also interesting that a meal here never makes you point out the omission of pork or alcohol on the menu, mostly because you won’t even notice they’re missing.

The food speaks for itself – and that’s saying a lot.

Which is why Arakawa is so keen to expand Nikaku’s footprint overseas. In fact, the determined chef has already set his sights on the Middle East.

“I did a lot of market research a few months ago and because we are focusing on the Muslim market, I see a lot of potential in places like Dubai, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and Bahrain.

“There are many sushi restaurants there but the quality is not like in Malaysia, so I want to elevate it. Hopefully I can find a good partner or investor to work with and open Nikaku in the Middle East,” says Arakawa, smiling.