When China-based restaurant chain Nong Geng Ji opened last year in Kuala Lumpur’s behemoth TRX, response was frenetic and overwhelming. Long, snaking queues were the norm and to this day, the eatery continues to be swamped with diners clamouring for its particular brand of Hunan cuisine.

Founded by famed chef Feng Guo Hua, the brand has over 100 stores in China alone and a growing international presence.

Since the first Malaysian outpost in TRX, the brand has expanded its local presence to cater to burgeoning demand and recently unveiled its fifth outlet at Sunway Pyramid. The outlet is the brand’s first’s ‘Oriental aesthetic’ concept in Malaysia and pays homage to traditional Chinese elegance.

Bouncy slices of fish co-exist alongside copious amounts of chill in what proves to be a fiery gastronomic rollercoaster ride.

While most Nong Geng Ji outlets retain a signature green theme, the Sunway Pyramid newbie is bathed in deep blue hues, creating an atmosphere of calm and Zen.

The food continues to be the beating heart of the restaurant and in this regard, there is plenty to whet the appetite. Hunan cuisine is one of the eight great Chinese cuisines and is renowned for its hot, spicy flavours and richly aromatic food.

Nong Geng Ji honours the food of its homeland with a panoply of dishes designed to tantalise. From what’s on offer, opt for the eatery’s signature Stir-Fried Glass Fish Fillet with Chili (RM65). Here, bouncy, pliant slices of fish co-mingle amiably with chilli in what proves to be a riotously feisty, fiery combination.

Then there is the Stir-Fried Pork with Abalone and Chilli (RM72), one of the restaurant’s most popular offerings that sees 600,000 plates sold annually. Here, Hunan green chilli, baby abalone and tender slices of pork make for a triumphant trinity that juxtaposes heat and fire against the satisfying malleable texture of the meat and the lightly aquatic qualities of the abalone.

The stir-fried pork with abalone and chilli is hot and packed with flavour.

The Sauerkraut Fish with Soup (RM96) meanwhile is a tangy, acerbic winner filled with fat, voluptuous slices of fish fillets swimming in a sauerkraut-laced broth that will take you down an astringent, yet hugely rewarding journey through pickled pleasures.

Another spicy fiend is the Stir-Fried Beef with Tea Oil (RM75) which features beef stir-fried over high heat using pure Hunan tea-oil, which is also known as the “olive oil of the East”. As a result of the oil infusion, the beef is slick yet supple and retains a succulence and smokiness in its core infrastructure.

If you’re after a noodle-based dish, indulge in the Big Shrimp with Vermicelli with Garlic (RM52), a meal that features glossy, slurp-worthy noodles and large shrimp with garlic speckled throughout this configuration. Toss everything together and savour the motley assortment of flavours and textures that glide through your palate. It’s one of the few dishes on the menu that stays clear of combustive spice levels, so if you’re looking for a mild yet flavourful dish, this will do nicely.

The pan-seared green chilli with century egg might seem like an odd duck, but if you're willing to brave unknown territory, you'll discover an addictive new treat.

The Pan-Seared Green Chillies with Century Egg (RM32) is a condiment served at the restaurant that may seem odd, but muddle the chillies and egg together and you’ll find a yummy, gummy concoction that melds incredibly well with rice.

Finish your meal with the Deep-Fried Glutinous Rice Fritters (RM12) which are dense, chewy, fried logs of dough sprinkled with sweet undertones that represent the best sort of culmination to a meal here.

The deep-fried glutinous rice fritters makes for the perfect way to end a meal.

Ultimately, a meal at Nong Geng Ji promises to introduce diners to the wonders of Hunan cuisine with a breathtaking array of addictive dishes designed to incite repeat visits. At the Sunway Pyramid outlet, you can enjoy all this with the added allure of an Oriental aesthetic ambience to complement the meal.

Nong Geng Ji